The Haitian Diaries
August 16 - 19, 2009
By Hugeaux
www.Hugeaux.com
This is the revision of the 34 page original manuscript.
Revised by Hugeaux
Haiti is one hour behind Eastern Standard Time.
August 16 - 19, 2009
By Hugeaux
www.Hugeaux.com
This is the revision of the 34 page original manuscript.
Revised by Hugeaux
Haiti is one hour behind Eastern Standard Time.
August 16, 2009
Sunday / Dimanche
Today is the day I take my trip to Port au Prince, Haiti. I am writing this entry while in the Fort Lauderdale International Airport. Much of the conversation in the terminal is full of heavy Creole accents. The purpose of this trip is to see the wonders and beauty of this Black Republic. The weather is fine and about 86F. I hope my French would assist me throughout this trip. I am very excited about this adventure and especially the tour of La Citadelle. As the plane approached the island of Haiti from the northern side, I couldn’t help and notice why the Caribbean got her name. The Caribbean sea is so blue, you felt that when the plane turned towards it, you were falling into it. As we touched down at Haiti’s Toussaint L’Ouverture International Aeroport, I couldn’t help but notice all the people around the aeroport. Now the traveler’s fun begins. I was told that the only cars available were standards (stick-shifts). I haven’t driven a standard in over 20 years. Secondly, the directions I got from the Internet were of no use. I tried to drive to the hotel, only to stall in the middle of traffic, with tap-taps (a beautifully colored truck-bus) full of people and taxis cursing me in Creole. I got out the car and walked over to the policeman and asked him for help. He told me to follow him. Through all the cuts, turns and huge pot holes in the roads, he got me to La Plaza Hotel of Port au Prince where my hotel was. The people at the hotel are extremely helpful as they let me check in early. I decided to walk La Plaza ( the center mall in the Capital) and photographed its extraordinary beautiful monuments. I was greatly surprise to learn that African American sculptor Richard Barthe was the principle creator of several of these National Monuments. I photographed: MUPANAH (Musee de Patheleon National Hatien), The Jean-Jacque DesSaline monument (founding Father, created by African American sculptor Richard Barthe) which was fenced and surrounded by the many flags of Haiti, The Henri Christophe monument (founding Father), The Alexandre Sabes Petion monument (founding Father & Father of the PanAmerican movement), La Palais Nacional, The Jean-Bertrand Aristide monuments (un-finished which is suppose to an eternal flame of fire), The Neg Mawon sculpture(the famous unknown Maroon) and The Toussaint L’Ouverture monument in front of La Palais National ( founding Father created by African American sculpture Richard Barthe) and others. La Plaza was teeming with lovers, strangers and people just enjoying the sun I couldn’t help but notice how the beautiful mountains embraced the bustling city. Everywhere I photographed had a mountain in the background. After my experience in trying to find the hotel today, I decided to haggle for a traveling companion, for my trip to Cap Haitien, Palace Sans Souci and La Citadelle. The Internet mentions that the trip from Port au Prince to Cap Hatien is only 81 miles and about 3 hours. The locals mentioned that it is about 5-6 hours, over pot hole roads. At the entry of this diary, I am haggling with the receptionist at the hotel, who is calling her friend or cousin to be my travel companion. I had to turn away an elderly gentleman travel companion because he wanted too much. The view of my hotel room looks out over the red terra cotta clay roof into the beautiful blue Haitian Caribbean sky. The later entry of today. I ordered spaghetti with meat sauce. After having dinner at the hotel, I went to check my rental car in the parking lot. I noticed that I had a flat tire. Immediately, the concierge, the maintenance gentleman, the front desk receptionist and the rifle toting security guard came to help me. A friend of the concierge pulled up and told us that just around the corner near the gas station was a group of men who fixed tires. He was right. I went right up into the Creole confusion and told them I speak English and needed a tire fixed. They not only fixed the flat tire but changed out the old tire with the brand new spare on the vehicle. I paid them $15. I must say, that today reminded me of my first European visit 25 years ago in Bruxelles, Belguim. When nothing but kindness and Humanitarianism helped me to survive. I shall like to thank everyone who helped me today. PS: I shall not be going to La Citadelle and Palais Sans Souci. The people who I was haggling with mentioned that it is a 2 day trip and is impossible to travel and sightsee in one day. Today, I was pushed beyond my limits…what a great day. Tomorrow I drive to Jacmel, Haiti…..Good Night and may God Bless…Hugeaux
August 17, 2009
Monday / Lundi
This morning I awoke early to take a walk around the Capital: Port au Prince. I first wanted to photograph the botanical garden which is the interior of the beautiful La Plaza Hotel. It is like a tropical rain forest with wild flowers, terra cotta and singing birds. There are Haitian painting all around the hotel an in every room. It was a pleasure to learn that the night receptionist did speak in Spanish. I don’t speak much Creole, however my Spanish is much better. So we talked in Spanish and I got much information. I decided to photograph The Capital. What a wonder. The stream / fog from the mountains was everywhere. My camera lens fogged up several times. It was a very beautiful sight. I saw people jogging around and a group of about 30 women exercising on La Plaza near the Dessaline monument. I photographed them. The people are very physical fit. The Capital of Haiti is full of much history. Monuments are everywhere. I stumbled on a large Catholic Cathedral: Notre Dame de L’Assomption and attended a morning chanting mass, hundreds of people in the morning for worship. I continued walking The Capital, every turn was breathtaking. The people wake up early in The Capital. I made it back for the continental breakfast and had breakfast with a friend from Haiti who has a bread factory here, but he lives in New York City.
(1:00pm)
Jacmel, The mountain region and Massif de la Selle region, Haiti
I am writing this entry while on the beach in Jacmel, Haiti. I took a swim in the Caribbean sea to refresh my senses. The Caribbean sea is very warm. The black sandy beaches are beautiful here. The mountains surround the sea, and you can still see the stream / fog from the mountains. The 3 hour drive from Port au Prince to Jacmel is full of some of the most beautiful scenery. Haiti is truly an ecological paradise. It was an adventure winding through the mountains, at one I thought I was going to fall off the cliff. Every turn is a picture. At the beginning of the climb, the standard shift car kept stalling. It wouldn’t crank, it stalled and wouldn’t crank. After I got the hang of driving through the mountains, I felt as if I was sailing. There are wild & domestic goats, cows, donkeys and pigs, etc. all along the mountain side.
(5:00pm)
The entire trip from Port au Prince to Jacmel took me 6 hours round trip. I spent one and a half hours in Jacmel. Haiti is truly an untold paradise. The people are so well fit. They are strong and healthy. Their skin is the color of the sun and earth. As I was driving through the mountains in the south of Haiti, I couldn’t help but notice, how the country people cultivated their crops. The crops are so well cultivated that the mountains look as if they have corn rows on them. I saw many ox driven carts and many donkey burden with straw and wood. I saw many women and men carrying buckets of supplies on their heads with perfect balance. The air is so fresh and clean, that one may become dizzy. The county people walk these mountains, so that is why they are in good physical health. This morning to Jacmel truly made up for not going to Cap Haitien (La Citadell, Palais and Sans Souci). On my way back from Jacmel I noticed a guave tree growing very tall, with green fruit. I stopped, photographed it and ate the fruit. One of the most exciting things that happened on the beach in Jacmel, was a elderly local wood sculptor approached me with buying his wooden sculpture. It is a very heavy wooden sculpture of a black man smoking a pipe and holding a machete, with the inscription Jacmel Haiti. It looks like the Haitian countrymen whom I saw earlier. We haggled over the price and I gave him my haggle price, which he accepted. The irony behind this is that Haiti is a country of negotiating. No man leaves until a solution is set. This is typical by it market filled streets. I have seen countrymen selling their crops, Haitian rhum and real French champagne on the streets in Port au Prince. A person mentioned to me why Port au Prince, is so congested is because it is a place for all to meet and socialize. The tap-taps (buses) are filled with people coming to the city from the countryside. I got to see Carre Four and Leogagne, other cities in southern Haiti, because I had to drive through them. I got out and photographed the Caribbean sea from Carre Four. There are many other small towns throughout the mountains, but I can’t remember their names. They are like villages, about 30 - 50 people. I noticed all the unfinished mansions, that were along the mountains. They are very huge structures, whose construction came to a stop and the countrymen use them for many functions. I heard donkey braying, goats naying and cows mooing all along the mountains, and while in the valley you could hear their echoes. The people are very beautiful. They appear to glisten in the sun. Their smiles are pure white and many of the countrymen seem well at ease. I am glad I took this journey to Jacmel by myself, because I would never had enjoyed myself if I had hired a companion. Tomorrow I shall visit the wealthiest side of Haiti: Petionville. Petionville is the home of the Haitian millionaires. I was not hungry, so I didn’t dine in the restaurant……Good Night and my God Bless…Hugeaux.
August 18
Tuesday / Mardi
It is so peaceful here. I sleep about 10 hours a night here and awake very early in the morning. I dreamt about the countrymen of southern Haiti, which I saw yesterday. This morning before breakfast I took a walk towards the northern part of The Capital and visited the historic church Sacre Coeur. I photographed the church and its surroundings. Along my walk I saw a lot of American product advertisement: Coca Cola, Kool Aid, etc. I made it back to have breakfast with my friend Monsieur. Joseph Guyto. Mr. Guyto is owner of La Fontain Super Boulangerie (The Super fountain Bakery). Monsieur Guyto lives in New York City and owns a bakery in Port au Prince. After breakfast Mr. Guyto invited me to his boulangerie (bakery). He mentioned he wanted me to photograph his boulangerie. It was incredible and very hot. We passed through his rifle carrying security guard to his factory. He produces bread for some of the vender of Port au Prince to sell to the people of Port au Prince. He asked me to photograph his bread factory and employees. He has over 30 people working here and it is very, very, hot. I photographed where they kneaded the bread, the dough, the baking oven, the rising room, the generator ..etc. The factory is in production 24 hours and has shift workers. The factory doesn’t run on electricity, but my a gas generator. After he finished business, we drove to Petionville and he showed me Petionville, mainly the center square. He was my guide. The city of Petionville sits in the mountains. We had to climb up the mountain to get there. In the center of town were the flower dealers and money exchange dealer to name a few. I photographed the area. There is a monument of Alexandre Sabes Petion, who is one of the founding four fathers of The Repubic of Haiti. It is very beautiful here. Mr. Guyto took me to the gas station as I can fill the car. Gas in Haiti is $4.25 a gallon. I didn’t get to see the mansions, but I photographed some of them from the mountainside.
12:00 noon
Today, I finally got to see the intelligent part of my visit to Haiti. I first visited the MUPANAH (Musee de Patheleon National Hatien). I was given a personal tour in English about the history of Haiti; from the Indians to the Spanish to the French and finally The African. This museum is a jewel of Haiti, as Haiti is proud to be the first black republic. I saw the official documents, pistol etc., of Toussaint L;Ouverture. I saw the original anchor of one of Christopher Columbus’s ships. I saw the original portrait of Henri Christophe by Richard Evans. I saw the original pure gold crown of emperor Faustin-Elie Soulouque, made of pure gold, diamonds, turquoise, garnets, etc. I saw the earrings of his wife; empress Adelina. I saw the original small flag that Haiti gave to the United States of America to place on the moon from Apollo #11, under the presidency of Richard Nixon. I saw and touched Henri Christophe original safe of the Palais Sans Souci, which was once full with treasures. I saw the hall of presidents. I was surprised that Haiti had a woman president by the name of Ertha Pascel Trouillot (pres. 1990 - 1991). I saw the wall which has all the names of Haitian freedom fighters. There are bust of the four Founding Fathers: L’Ouverture, Dessaline, Christophe and Petion. This is just naming a fews of the many wonderful sites and history of MUPANAH. My guide told me that he was fluent in French, Creole, English and Spanish. I finished my tour of MUPANAH by viewing the present art exhibition of modern Haitian aritsts. There is no photographing in the museum. I then hopped over to the Musee d’Art Haitien. What a surprise. The main entrance was locked, so I walked around the side and found the other main entrance. I learned later why the official entrance was closed. I entered a visual paradise. I couldn’t photograph in the museum. The museum was filled with many Hatian primitive art. Primitive in respect to historic Haitian artists. Many works by renown Haitian artists: Wilson Bigaud (1931 - present), Robert Saint-Brice (1893 - 1973), Jacque E. Gourgue (1931 - 1996), whose fantasy images I really liked, and Hector Hyppolite (1894 - 1948), to name a few. The museum current collection on exhibition is full of many ritual and VooDoo paintings. I spoke totally in French with my tour guide. I was totally amazed that Hector Hyppolite, is the only artists whose personal documents are on display. Hector Hyppolite (1894 - 1948) seemed to document everything. This totally reminded me of one of the purposes of my visit here in Haiti. These original Haitian painting are so inspiring with their color combinations and their playful emotions of fantasy and soulfulness. The bronze sculptures by sculptor Ludovic Booz (1940 - present) was very inspiring as I didn’t know that a realist Haitian sculptor existed. He created a breathtaking bronze, full figure of Hatian founding father Toussaint L’Ouverture and a child sculpture titled: La Tonton. Now the crème of the crème. The reason that the official entrance was closed was because in the entryway was a huge wood tree sculpture of The Crucifixion of Jesus Christ. This wood sculpture was the bottom half of a huge tree with all the huge roots. This is similar to the images in my photo-documentary (YouTube) of Nassau Sound: The Tree Graveyard, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f82e49k_L8M&feature=fvsr. The sculptor craved into the trunk and roots of the tree, figures of people including Jesus Christ and the cross. It is a full scene. I imagine the sculpture weighs about 1000 plus pounds. The reason it was placed there is because it couldn’t be moved any further pass the entrance door. So, the museum chose to close the main entrance and use the side entrance. These 2 museums are a sight to see and remember in Port au Prince, Haiti. As I made my way back to the hotel I walked across La Plaza and you could see the lovers, young people and others, enjoying the fresh air and soleil (sun). The water fountains were flowing and heavy Creole was hanging over the air. Kompas music and some Zouk music are blasting from the tap-taps, everywhere. Vendors are everywhere. This is a beautiful sight to see all the black skins basking in the soleil and enjoying nature. As, I mentioned earlier, the people are in good physical health. I am extremely exhausted, however in a good way. My entrance back to the hotel is full of the flower fragrance of the trees. The birds are signing as I continue to cross the promenade to my salle (room). The staff is Bon Jour-ing! and Salut - ing! All the way as I pass. Yes this is paradise. When I got to my salle, I turned the radio on and let the Kompas music smooth me before I took a nap and dressed for dinner.
6:00 pm
At dinner tonight I was surprised that the only people eating in the hotel restaurant were African Americans. There was 3 women from New York City, a elder gentleman from Philadelphia, a woman from North Carolina and myself from Florida. I ordered spaghetti with meat sauce for the second night. We had polite conversation. We all exchanged friendly welcomes and asked each other are we enjoying our stays and how long we are staying. This is the last dinner I shall have in Haiti. I shall be returning to the United States of America tomorrow in the evening, however I shall be checking out of the hotel after breakfast, tomorrow. At this point I have created over 250 photographs of a part of this beautiful Black Republik; Haiti. Its architecture and beauty is very renowned. Haiti is a brilliant diamond buried in the earth. To view its brilliance you must dig and dig deep. My walking these les rue (streets) and socializing with the Haitian people has taught me a lot about patience. Things unfold in time. You must wait and let God show you his strength and beauty. I have nothing negative to say about this beautiful Black Republik: Haiti. Its beauty is everywhere, in the people, the architecture, the flora and in its language. It is getting late and I must get some rest. I had a beautiful and exhausting day. However, that is the purpose of the trip. Tomorrow I return to the United States of America……Good Night, and my God Bless…Hugeaux.
August 19, 2009
Wednesday / Mercredi
Final Day
I couldn’t sleep last night. I believe it is because I know I am returning back home today. I watched a lot of Haitian television last night, mainly news commentaries and some of a little league soccer game. This is the last entry of my Haiti trip. I am writing this entry while in the The International Aeroport de Toussaint L-Ouverture. I walked more of The Capital neighborhoods this morning. The Capital is bustling with people very early in the morning. As I walked up and down the mountainside roads I am overwhelmed by all the art work on buildings here. Every corner has art. The murals of the Hatian artist; Kabel, is the majority of murals I photographed. Kabel’s murals are large, full of fantasy and very colorful. Kabel is a pillar to the Humanities of Haiti. I do not know if he/she is alive or dead. The one most interesting site I photographed today was a sculpture of the famous Haitian freedom fighter: Yaya (a woman) with Kabel mural in the background. Yaya is to Haiti as Harriett Tubman is to the United States of America. Each corner opens up to alley-road neighborhoods. It is 6:00 am in the morning and people are moving as if it is 12:00 noon. Port au Prince is a large city. People are coming out of everywhere. Another captivation for me was to see all the Coca cola advertisement which exist here. My Creole has definitely improved. I heard an elder madame say to me in passing that “ my photographs will make beautiful posters”. In a whisper I said “Oui!, Oui Madame”. I walked more this morning because I knew I was leaving. Another incredible observation was that I kept hearing opera from a building. I first looked at the cars and tap-taps to see if it was coming from them. I then learned that it was coming from a building I was passing. This was an interesting change from the Creole-Kompas blasting from the city. I continued to walk. Many children were out of school, due to summer and running along les rues and helping their families sell their products. I photographed several artisan at work. I photographed a tailor, who smiled and wave, but continue to work. I photographed a knife / machete sharpener. The sparks were flying everywhere. I photographed a furniture maker who didn’t look up but was intense in his craft. It is not 6:30 am and le soleil is hot and one of the best artisan photographs I photographed was a man pulling a cart of 2 huge basket, as if an oxen. The streets are crowded with people. Some of the fried foods smell good, however I have breakfast waiting for me at the hotel. At one point I found myself walking in a circle. It is funny, I now know how to get around The Capital. There are no street signs, so you must remember landmarks and marking. The Jean-Bertrand Aristide monument was my focal point. It is the highest of the monuments and can be spotted from various spots. This is truly a proud nation. Bon Jours! and Saluts! are present everywhere in the morning. One of my major observations is that the people go to worship (church) every morning. I happened upon a Holiest church this morning. People where shouting, on their knees praying onto the pews. This truly reminded me of the good ole Southern Holy Ghost churches. The preacher was going on and on, and the congregation mainly women were shouting, hands raising and worshiping God. This diary is different from all my other diaries, because I totally must rely on my Humanitarian skills and communicate in order to survive. It has definitely worked. People stared but that is what people do. A simple Bon Jour or Salut goes a long way. I made it back to the hotel in time for breakfast. I discovered by breakfast companion Monsieur. Joseph Guyto had started without me. He mentioned that he was leaving in about 4 days and I told him I was leaving right after breakfast. We said our Au Revoirs and I gave him my business card. We both vowed to stay in touch. Monsieur Guyto is definitely Haitian business oriented. He mentioned that my photographs are worth a lot of money, and we both laughed. We said our good byes again and I departed for the airport. I drove by myself to the aeroport with no problem. From the hotel, Avenida (Avenue) Martin Luther King Jr takes you to Toussaint L’Ouverture International Aeroport. Talking about a truly Black Republik
( Martin Luther King Jr to Toussaint L’Ouverture…Right On!!!). As I sit in the terminal, heavy Creole is heard everywhere. Some French tourists are speaking French and a little Caribbean English is heard. I walked up stairs to the Duty-Free store and purchased 2 bottles of Haitian rhum: Berling‘s Vieux Labbe to take back to the United States of America. Haiti is a country where you must come with plenty cash. Credit cards are fine for hotels, etc., but to purchase things you must have cash. I came to Haiti with credits cards and 20 - one dollar US bills, 4- 5 dollar US bills, and 6 - 10 dollar US bills. With in a day and a half all the one dollar US bills were gone. That left me with 5’s and 10’s, and THEY DO NOT GIVE CHANGE. I really had to do some maneuvering. I didn’t want to change my money to the Haitian gourd, because the vendors like US dollars. This helped because when I filled up the car it came to US$25.00 for 6 gallons. However the first time to a country is always an experience. I may not have many gifts to bring back, but the now over 300 photographs of this beautiful Black Republik: Haiti is priceless. ….my flight is ready to depart.
Return flight entry
The return flight from Haiti was very interesting. The plane was full. I sat with 2 other Haitian gentlemen around my age and we talked about everything from Haitian politics to the new resort Haiti is planning for the island Gonave. We laughed, talked, shared beliefs and laughed some more. I told them about all the Haitian history which exists in the museums in The Capital. They were really amazed. They stated they were born and raised in Haiti and didn’t know these museums existed. They told me the story about the theft of the original Neg Mawom statue. They mentioned that the Neg Mawon now on the square across La Palais Nacional is a reproduction. They mentioned that the theft happened so smoothly that it just disappeared and reappeared. They mentioned it happen several years ago. I found this story very interesting. Truth or Fiction this is interesting listening. We laughed about how the lights in Haiti go on and off, unexpectedly, and they mentioned that it was all political. They talked about how Haitian politics is the politics of self preservation. As we were filling out our custom forms, I declared my 2 bottles of Haitian rhum, they told me the story of Petionville. They mentioned that Petionville is the richest area in all Haiti. That Petionville is a city of old family wealth that never changes hands, but stays in the family. I told them about the great deal I got with the airline and they mentioned they will check it out. One of the gentlemen mentioned he lives in the United States of America for 6 months and returns to Haiti for 6 months. I mentioned to him that he needs to check out the airline I mentioned. The other gentlemen mentioned that he owns a security company in Haiti and now that his business is doing well, the governments wants a piece of the action. We talked the entire 2 hours of the flight. This has been a very enjoyable journey in my life. I have new friends and was given the warm welcome to come back again. I just might do that. What can I say about Haiti. Haiti is a gem. Haiti is a black diamond. Haiti is a place for romance. Haiti is a place of ecological beauty. Haiti is a paradise and I only saw a small glimpse of this black diamond. I want to thank all the staff at La Plaza Hotel , 10 rue Capois, Champs de Mars, Port au Prince Haiti. La Plaza Hotel is a tropical paradise. I shall like to thank Avis car rental who made my driving smooth, just a few bumps. I would like to thank all the beautiful people of this Black Republik; Haiti
Lastly, I shall like to thank God Almighty for showing me this beautiful Black Republik; Haiti
…..Aye! Aye! Ayiti (Haiti)
Hugeaux
Copyright Hugeaux All Rights Reserved.
The Beauty of Haiti
YouTube Presentations
Hugeaux Photography: Haiti Paradise 2009 : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6C2VgTYWCA
Hugeaux Photography: Haiti - Road to Petionville 2009: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9y6_uIEZfE&feature=related
Hugeaux Photography: Haiti - Road to Jacmel 2009: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJ57wPTA_js
Hugeaux Photography: Haiti - A Proud People 2009: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GM7Ym7Rccp4
Hugeaux Photography: Haiti: The art of Kabel: muralist and street artist. Port au Prince 2009: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jx30f5mzHc8
Hugeaux Photography: Haiti: La Fontain Super Boulangerie 2009: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0ZyKsM__hg
Hugeaux Photography: Haiti: The art of Advertisement. Port au Prince Haiti 2009: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MYXCodvdNk
Hugeaux Photography: Haiti: The Architecture & Decor of Port au Prince 2009: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Codl5uqbU14
